A well-made pair of leather gloves needs surprisingly little care. Leather is skin: it wants to be worn, it improves with use, and most of the damage we see in the workshop comes not from neglect but from well-meant over-treatment — radiators, conditioning creams, washing machines. Here is what actually helps, from a family that has made gloves since 1925.
The one rule that matters: keep them away from heat
If your gloves get wet — rain, snow, a dropped glass — nothing is wrong. Blot them with a dry cloth, put them on for a moment so they regain the shape of your hands, then let them dry flat at room temperature. It may take a day. What ruins leather is not water but heat: a radiator, a hairdryer or a sunny dashboard pulls the natural oils out and leaves the leather stiff and prone to cracking. Patience costs nothing; a radiator costs the pair.
Cleaning: less than you think
For everyday marks, a soft cloth wrung out in lukewarm water is enough. Wipe gently in the direction of the grain and let the gloves dry flat. For winter salt stains, wipe the same way as soon as you notice them — salt left to sit draws moisture out of the leather.
Resist stronger measures. No alcohol wipes, no household cleaners, and never a washing machine — lined gloves in particular do not recover from one. If a mark will not lift with a damp cloth, test anything further on the inside of the cuff first, where a mistake will not show.
Conditioning: rarely, sparingly, colourless
Deerskin, lambskin and peccary come to us already tanned to stay supple for years, so most gloves never need conditioning at all. If an unlined pair starts to feel dry after several winters, a very small amount of colourless leather balm, worked in with your fingers and buffed off, restores it. Use less than you think you need, and expect the leather to darken slightly and temporarily. Avoid oils and waxes made for boots and furniture — they are built for thicker hides and will oversaturate a glove.
Putting them on and taking them off
More gloves are misshapen at the cuff than worn out at the fingers. Work your fingers in first and settle each one, then ease the glove over the hand — rather than pulling hard on the cuff. Take them off finger by finger, not by yanking the whole glove from the wrist. A close fit is the point of a handmade glove; treated this way, the leather moulds to your hand instead of stretching out of shape. If you are between sizes, our sizing guide shows how to measure.
Storing them between seasons
At the end of winter, let the gloves air for a day, then store them flat — laid in a drawer is ideal — somewhere dry and out of direct sunlight. Skip plastic bags and boxes; leather needs to breathe, and trapped moisture is how mould starts. Cashmere- and fur-lined pairs benefit from a proper airing before they are put away, and a cedar block nearby does no harm.
Frequently asked questions
Can leather gloves get wet?
Yes. Rain and snow will not harm them if you let them dry slowly at room temperature, flat, away from any heat source. Reshape them briefly on your hands while still damp.
Can I wash leather gloves?
Not in a machine, and not by soaking. A damp cloth handles almost everything. Lined gloves especially should never be immersed — the lining and leather dry at different rates.
How long do handmade leather gloves last?
Worn regularly and treated as above, decades. Deerskin in particular combines softness with real toughness — it is why we recommend it as a first serious pair. See how the leathers compare in our leather guide.
Do different leathers need different care?
The routine above suits all the leathers we work with. Peccary rewards even lighter handling — its soft, pitted grain needs nothing more than a damp cloth and time.
Every pair we make is hand-cut and finished in our workshop in Târgu Mureș, Transylvania. If a glove of ours ever needs more than this page covers, write to us — repairs and questions are part of what a family workshop is for.